Crib Goch in the mist

Approaching the Crib Goch ridge

This was another planned attempt to go to Scotland and do some high mountain routes but once again the weather looked naff up there so we 'set the controls to the heart of North Wales'.

After 3 intense climbing days my mate Jim requested we do something a little less taxing, I didn't have a problem with that as I felt jaded too. The theme for the week was to take advantage of the fantastic dry weather and go for the high mountain routes so he suggested Gambit route high on Clogwyn y Ddysgl.

Guidebooks all raved about it being a mega classic. ' Acres of exposure, superb moves, great rock and a crux at the end. What more could you ask for'

All that was left was to work it into a classic mountain day and of course do it.

One of the big advantages of climbing huts over other hostels is that they are set up for walking/climbing enthusiasts and most have have a library of ALL the local guides and maps so I perused and came up with a itinerary that included 3 summits 4 scrambles. 2 classic rock climbs and 'One of the finest easy mountain routes in the UK.'

The route started out of the back door of the hut and we followed the footpath into the hanging cwm below Cyrn Las where we struggled to find the first scramble so I suggested we have a look at the crag opposite as an alternative.

At the time!!!!!!. We thought this gave a 90m grade 2 scramble on immaculate rock.

From this side of the cwm the line of our original scramble was was now obvious so it was an easy contour round to its base. Graded 3 the hard bit was in the first 20 feet after that it was a steady grade 1 that made an interesting route up to the second hanging cwm under Clogwyn y Ddysgl.

This is hallowed territory many regard the Parsons nose as the finest scramble in Wales but today we ingnored it to do Gambit route.

Which finished on the ridge above Parsons nose and gives an amazing scramble to the summit of Garnedd Ugain 1065m.

All that was left now was to reverse Crib Goch 923m then descend via the North Ridge home after doing 3 summits, 5 scrambles and 'One of the finest easy mountain routes in the UK.'

Back at the hut I checked the guides and found our 1st inpromtu scramble was Conway Climb graded Diff.

 

 Photo showing the line of Gambit Climb

 Gambit Climb

The Grade 2scramble that turned out to be Conway Climb

 Cyrn Las in the mist

 Finishing the classic ridge

 

I've gotta leave old Durham town. (And the leavings gonna get me down)

Wednesday afternoon on the river

One of the best things about the late warm summer nights is that you can get out walking/climbing/bouldering on an evening after work.

Its something I have done all my adult life man and boy, to me its what life is all about, that almost spiritual feeling escaping for a few midweek hours of physical outdoor excersize away from the grind of working life. Slowly watching the sun drop below the horizon then as darkness enfolds sadly its over and time to pack up and go home to normal life.

So one would expect the clocks going back would be a depressing time BUT a funny thing happens late October when is fading by three and dark by five. My interest in the counrtyside switches to the bright lights of the cities like the click a switch.

When its grim outside and dark and wet, I like nothing more than a walk round some of our magnificent northern towns and cities.

In particular I have a thing about bridges, cathedrals, stations, trains, old buildings, new buildings, still life, moving objects, old pubs, well am sure you get my jist.

AND

The very best thing about this time of year is that we all know winter is truly on its way.........................

 Carful cropping to avoid the scaffold

 Buskers convention

 The 4.15 heading south

 Uni Campus

The 7.15 ueading north

Confessions of a compulsive weather watcher (Part Two)

Looking across to the New DG



Yesterday we had arrived at the hut in Langdale to find the occupants had just had 2 wet days, while we had been basking in the sunshine on the east side of the country so they were skeptical when I said it was gonna be brill for the next couple of days.

Next morning we all awake to blue skies and sunshine, decided to do a traverse of Lingmoor then complete the circuit back thro the valley, the views were very impressive and we had spotted some potential spots for taking photos. It also allowed us to make some notes about the timings of shadows in the valley.

The next day we were up at 06.00 the plan was to get some some sunrise shots, which were a disappointment, you can't win em all, back to the hut for breakfast.

Today's main walk was on the North side of the valley including Blea Rigg and Silver Howe. The sun eventually broke thro and this walk gave us chance to observe the timings of the shadows on the other side of the valley.

After three superb walking days so the next day was going back home, we had a lie in, late breakfast and tidied up the hut, as the predicted time approached, we wandered across to the north side of the valley, as if by magic the south suddenly lit up and we were treated to an amazing view.

II don't think it will be long before I am back in Langdale, now what is that weather forecast doing​?.

 

Leading lines on Lingmoor

 Hidden water feature

Pano shot

A Ryolite Romp

Starting the Monster Kilometre Traverse


Yesterday was a sad day, I did my last remaining Munro in the dramatic Glencoe scenery now I have to make an excuse to go back there.

Its one of my fave areas and I have done a lot of summer and winter climbing here.  As you approach the road drops down into the Glen the mountains seem to soar higher each side. With all those buttresses, ridges, faces and corries in close proximity to the road its a unique area for scramblers and mountaineers, theres even stuff here for walkers.

The most famous scramble in the area, the Aonach Eagach attracts the masses BUT there are dozens of other great days out just as good that avoids the crowds.

Today we plan to go onto one of these on the mountains opposite, Aonach Dubh,  the Ryolite Romp. 


Never heard of it I hear you say...................


It starts on the West Face, steep territory here,  home to some of the best rock climbing and mountaineerimg routes in Scotland.

So our route really is a sheep in wolfs clothing, sneaking up an easy scramble called Dinner Time Buttress amidst steeper ground . This leads onto a monster kilometer long traverse time with steep crags above and below. A break in the upper crag allows you to escape and ascend a gully leading you onto a second traverse leading back past the point you started.

My mate is keen to do summits so we quit the upper traverse and visit the top of Aonach Dubh. 
We decide to drop down into another major mountaineering area, Stob Coire nan Lochan where we pick up the main path down into the valley,

We call in at the Clachaig for a pint where I bump into one of the youngsters I helped as a beginner, now working as a MIC. 


Great day out with a bonus catch up. 

 Yes the route goes up there

 Ascending the gully

 Looking across at the Aonach Eagach

Stob Corrie nan Lochan