This
photo does not do it justice BUT this is the point as you approach the CIC hut you realise
just how big Ben Nevis is:- Tower ridge is the first ridge on the
right, The incident described happened where the main face is marked Observatory Buttress......
Conditions
were stable, weather fine until late afternoon when it was due
to deteriate. Four of us had an early start and walked into the North Face of Ben Nevis our
two mates decided to do a rapid ascent of the Grade III Classic Tower
Ridge *** while we opted for the Grade V,5 Vanishing Gully** on the
west side of Tower Ridge its a short tough route which should allow
us an early finish before the bad weather hit-Well that was the plan.
Everything
went fine for us and we finished our route on Tower Ridge in thick
mist and heavy snow, here you have an option of going up to the
summit plateau or reversing down the ridge, we opted for the latter.
We
had not decended far when we heard an ominous clattering and aaaaargh
followed by some more clattering, someone had taken a bad fall across
on the Orion Face area. From Tower ridge they were very close to us
so we could hear them clearly despite not seeing them thro thick
mist.
We
shouted are you ok, relief as they replied yes but we are hanging in
space....oh (S)hit.
Cut
a long story short the they were on Obsevatory Ridge one of the many
BIG 3*** classics in that area, the leader had slipped draging the
second off his stance so they were both falling when one of the ropes
snagged on a spike, stopped them but they had been seperated and both
of them were hanging in space.
This
was before the days of mobile phones so we descended quickly to the
CIC hut where there was (still is) a field telephone for emergency
use. By now the wind was almost knocking us off our feet and we were
glad to get into the hut out of the blizzard.
Thankfully
there were three guys in the hut but the (b)astards would not contact
the police on just our word, after 20 frantic minutes trying to get
them to use the phone I was raving. As a last resort I went over to
the log book where every hut user has to sign in. Ripped out a page
from the back and wrote down the name of the three residents, shall I
say all of them were well known Scottish mountaineers....
I
said its 17.00hrs now so I am going down to the fort bill nick {a 2hr
walk) to report this incident and the fact that these three guys
have refused to phone the message in doing so risked lives and delayed this
rescue by at least 2 hrs.
So
they reluctantly made the call.
Our
problems were not over though, light was failing and we walked off
the hill in the darkness, back at the car our 2 mates failed to
show, so we reported them missing. The rescue team were in the back room at the nick
preparing to go out, they had a busy night ahead. Apparently 11 folks
were reported missing, conditions were grim, getting grimer, the
rescue services do an amazing job, I did not envy them setting off up
the hill in this storm.
We
got lucky, found our mates at the chippy at 23.00 hrs they had been
caught in the atrocious conditions and escaped by the tourist route
the only safe way of the hill that night, we notified the police that
they were safe and went back to our digs at the Alex Mac hut.
Monday morning back at work a guy showed me the Daily Express there was a sensational full page 'artists impression' sketch of daring rescue on Ben Nevis. It showed two guys on a steep cliff dangling in space from a rope snagged on a protruding spike with the rescue services lowering from the ridge above to reach them......
Another view of the North Face from the CMD ridge
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